Wild Ponies of Assateague Island

A reasonable drive for residents of Eastern Canada, Quebec and Ontario, the shores of Maryland offer the vacation of a lifetime for lovers of horses and seascapes.

by Barbara Sheridan

While my husband does the driving, I clutch a pair of binoculars and scan the horizon for the park’s famous wild ponies. I am fully prepared to creep silently over sand dunes and duck behind clumps of beach grass in the hope of glimpsing one of these equine foragers. But as we cross over the bridge leading to Assateague Island and slowly drive through the Maryland State Park, I am pleasantly surprised to see small groups of ponies quietly grazing in the salt marshes, trotting across the dunes, and even nibbling grass in the parking lot. They were literally everywhere!

After a visit with relatives in Baltimore, Maryland, we decided to take a two-hour side trip and visit the Assateague National Seashore. This destination is a delight for horse enthusiasts because of its unique inhabitants – a herd of 150 wild ponies. Like many children, I grew up with Marguerite Henry’s classic book, Misty of Chincoteague, which chronicles the true adventures of a family’s adoption of a young, wild Chincoteague pony named Misty. There’s just something irresistable about the image of horses running free, splashing through the surf with their whinnies echoing across the dunes. This was something I had to see for myself.

Living History

The ponies of Assateague Island and Chincoteague derive from a race of small, hardy Barb-type horses that have roamed the beaches and salt marshes of the island for centuries. Located off the coast of Virginia and Maryland, they have survived since the early 1600’s along the marshlands of the eastern seashore. Legend has it that a Spanish galleon ship carrying its cargo of horses to the colonies of South America shipwrecked off the coast of Assateague during a storm, and the horses swam ashore to safety. Others say the horses were brought in by early colonial settlers for work and were allowed to roam freely about the island. The recent discovery of a Spanish shipwreck near the waters of Assateague Island lends credence to the first theory, even though historians still favour the latter, less romantic story.

Commonly referred to as “wild”, these ponies are not truly wild, but rather “feral.” The term feral refers to animals originally descended from domesticated stock that have reverted to a wild state and are no longer under direct human control. The ponies have adapted surprisingly well to the sparsely vegetated island by consuming a diet of saltmarsh cordgrass, American beach grass, and even seaweed. Because of the high level of salt in their diet, they drink large amounts of water from the fresh water ponds scattered throughout the park. This helps to flush the excess salt from their bodies, and gives their bellies a bloated appearance. Most of these feral ponies tend to resemble the Welsh or Arabian breeds of today, and range in height from around 12 to 14 hands tall.

Pony Park Lands

Situated on a windswept barrier island, Assateague is managed by the National Park Service and covers 37 miles of pristine beach, marsh and parkland. Miles of intertwining paved roads and accompanying bike paths and trails allow visitors to explore the area and observe the ponies as they romp along the island’s dunes. It is truly a traveler’s delight, as spring arrives early and winter comes late. The park offers plenty of seaside recreation, or if you prefer, a beautiful beach for just lying back and soaking up the sun. Overnight camping is available for those who can’t bring themselves to leave at the end of the day.

The Maryland-Virginia border bisects this island, with the Virginia side maintained by the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge, and the land to the north managed by the Assateague National Seashore. With a growing concern for the ponies’ overgrazing the island’s limited resources, a fence was erected at the Maryland/Virginia state line that separates two herds of approximately 150 head each. In turn, these herds have divided themselves into small bands of 3 to 10 animals, and each band has its own territory within the parks. The two main groups of ponies are known as The Virginia Herd and The Maryland Herd.

Pony Roundup

The Virginia Herd belongs to the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Department and, unlike the Maryland ponies, is closely managed. This herd is well known for its Annual Pony Swim, held each year during the end of July. This famous form of “Pony Penning” began in 1924 to raise money for the Fire Company, and has become an ongoing tradition that has even been broadcast live on Good Morning America. The Virginia Herd is rounded up by the local firemen, who act as “saltwater cowboys” for the day. The entire herd crosses the Assateague channel at slack tide for a 10-minute swim in front of cheering spectators. The ponies are then penned, and the next day the foals and yearlings are auctioned off. Following the auction, the remaining stallions and mares are herded back through the waters to Assateague. The Fire Company finds the pony swim quite successful, both in population control and as a popular regional event.

Although the locals seem unperturbed by the event, concern has grown over the years, particularly among experienced horse people, about the harsh separation of mother and foal at auction and the level of knowledge among buyers taking home traumatized youngsters. The American Horse Protection Association has been working with the Eastern Shore SPCA in educating both the pony buyers as well as the members of the Fire Company, so that the ponies are handled more humanely.

Running Free

While the Virginia Herd is contained behind fenced-in marshes and usually only visible at a distance, the Maryland Herd roams freely throughout the park. And because of frequent exposure to the park’s visitors, these ponies are not shy about approaching humans. It is not uncommon to observe these fabled creatures up close as they parade freely along the beaches in search of a friendly handout. Visitors are discouraged from any direct contact with the ponies though, as they are still considered wild, and a harmful kick or bite can result.

Because the Maryland Herd doesn’t participate in the firemen’s pony swim, other methods of population control have been implemented. Since 1994, female ponies have undergone a non-hormonal contraceptive vaccine that is administered yearly through a dart gun. This process has proven to be successful in keeping the herd numbers down in what is considered a more humane manner.

Getting There

There are two entrances to the Assateague Island National Seashore. The north entrance is at the end of Route 611, eight miles south of Ocean City, Maryland, while the south entrance is at the end of Route 175, two miles from Chincoteague, Virginia. Visitors can explore the island’s many nature trails on foot or by bike, or may join a “marine eco-tour” by boat that gives them a chance to see Assateague from a different perspective. In addition to the ponies, you can observe tiny deer, scores of birds, and plenty of marine life. Camping is available on the park’s island, or you can choose from the many family-oriented accommodations in nearby Chincoteague. The park is open year-round, and entrance fees are $5 per vehicle for up to seven days. Camping permits are available for $10 to $14 per day.

For more information, contact the Assateague Island National Seashore, 7206 National Seashore Lane, Berlin, Maryland, U.S.A. 21811, (410) 641-1441 or visit www.assateagueisland.com

Barbara Sheridan is a freelance writer, photographer and long-time horse owner. She currently lives in Ancaster, Ontario, with her Cheval Canadien, Beaumont.